Robert Jones’ Makeup Masterclass: A Complete Course in Makeup for All Levels, Beginner to Advanced

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From the Publisher

Chapter 3: Skin Deep – Applying foundation

Sponge

A sponge is the most sanitary because people are most likely to wash it or throw it away after using it. You must clean it after every use because there is no way to get perfect application from a sponge with dried-up foundation from two days ago in it. The cleaner the tool, the better the application. Sponges also help immeasurably with the blending process. I love sponges. I really feel like I can get the foundation and skin to look like one because I can blend so well. You are in control of your coverage with a sponge. If you stipple (use a patting motion), your sponge will give you more coverage, and if you use it to glide foundation across your face, it will give you less coverage. Always use your sponge damp to help it glide across the skin easier and absorb less product. The higher quality the sponge, the more flawless the application. In the case of sponges, price does matter.

Brush

A brush blends well, so it gives you great coverage. The head of a liquid foundation brush is tapered in its design to promote smooth, even coverage, helping your foundation blend as you apply it. It’s great if you want a little extra coverage. It’s also excellent for touching up the foundation you’ve worn all day. If you want to go out in the evening but you don’t want to cleanse your face and start over, you can apply more foundation right on top of the product you’ve had on all day. You can’t do that with a sponge or your fingertips. Always wash a liquid foundation brush after every application. Liquid foundation brushes are easy to wash because they are made of synthetic bristles, so they wash more easily and dry faster than natural-bristle brushes. The cleaner the tool, the better the application.

Fingertips

Don’t have a brush or sponge handy? No problem because the third tool is your fingertips. Just make sure to wash your hands after you’ve applied your moisturizer and treatment products and before you apply your foundation. The residue from the treatment products can compromise the integrity of your foundation and diminish the amount of coverage it provides. Your fingers can give you beautiful, smooth coverage. They’re my least favorite tool only because I feel like I can get a better finish with a sponge or a brush. But again, if they’re the tool you work best with, they’re your perfect application tool.

Chapter 5: Eye Basics: Tweeze your eyebrows – Three key points of reference

Point A.

Hold a pencil or the handle of a brush vertically against the side of your nose, noting where it meets the brow. That is where your eyebrow should begin. Keep in mind the width you put between your brows will affect how wide the bridge of your nose appears. The wider the space between your brows, the wider your nose can look; the narrower the space, the narrower your nose will look.

Point B.

Hold the handle against your nostril and move it diagonally across the outer half of the iris of your eye. Note where the handle meets your brow: This is the best place for the peak of your arch. If you tweeze from point A to point B, tapering the line slightly toward the peak, you will create the ideal shape for your brow. It is a gentle taper, using the natural width at the beginning of your brow (point A) and slowly tapering it as you get to the arch (point B).

Point C.

Place the handle against your nostril again, but this time, extend it diagonally to the outer corner of your eye. Where it meets the brow is the best place for your brow to end. If you tweeze from point B to point C, tapering the line even thinner, you will create the best brow shape for your face. Once again, it is a slow taper from point B to point C, not a drastic change.

Chapter 6: Eye Masterclass

Modern Audrey Eye

This is a classic, named after one of the most iconic beauties of all times because it was her signature look. This is my modern take on Audrey Hepburn’s classic look—a look that’s easy to wear but not necessarily easy to do. I’m going to show you a trick that makes it easier to achieve.

Sparkling Eye

This is one of my favorite looks. It works wonderfully for photos and special occasions. It’s all about creating the most shape possible with the eyelid, which is why it photographs so beautifully. Contrast is not only created with color, but with texture.

Smoking with Crèmes

Some would call this a very rock ’n’ roll look, because of the smudginess of the smoky eye. I just like the kind of slept-in look it has. The great part of creating a smoky eye with a crème is that it is fast. The hard part is blending, but you will conquer it with a little practice.

Chapter 9 – Beauty at Any Age: Your Lips as You Age

As we age, our lips lose volume. Keep that in mind especially if you have ivory or beige skin. Dark shades will age you and make your lips look even smaller, so keep that in mind when choosing your shade.

Adding back a little color can go a long way toward adding a little life back to your face. It doesn’t have to be super bright, just a nice shot of a little warm color. Revisit your color theory (see page 45) for your best color choices.

Last, because your lips, just like the rest of your skin, tend to be drier as you age, think about choosing formulas that add a lot of moisture. This will make your lips look much more supple and full. Don’t be afraid to wear lip gloss; that always adds the look of fullness. You might also want to try the fuller lip technique (see page 256). You may also find more fine lines around your lips, which could cause your lipstick and gloss to be more likely to bleed (to stop this from happening, see the Q & A on page 255).

Chapter 10 – That Special Day

Midday Bride

If you’re planning a wedding in the middle of the day, be aware that the midday sun can cast shadows on your face, which can make a difference if you’re taking outdoor photos. This is the harshest light to be photographed in. Because the natural light will be coming from directly above you, you’ll want to follow these steps to make sure you are picture perfect.

Late Afternoon Bride

The golden light of late afternoon is the most beautiful light you can be photographed in. Late afternoon is when the sun is starting to set in the sky, creating a beautiful warm glow. Because the light will be so beautiful and forgiving, you can add a little more drama to your makeup look. You can wear more eyeshadow and have more shade options. This is hands down the photographer’s and makeup artist’s favorite time to photograph a bride.

Evening Bride

If you love to glam it up, an evening wedding allows you to go for a more dramatic makeup look. You can play with color and wear more makeup at night than at any other time, and you will still photograph beautifully. This is the time of day for the bride who wants to be a glamour queen.

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